This might rival the Pete Wells review of Guy Fieri’s place published a couple of years later.
“They ate crisp artichokes offered as carciofi alla giudia. These tasted of shirt cardboard. They ate sawdusty chicken livers lashed with balsamic. They sipped at lentil soup familiar to anyone who owns a can opener…”
Source: Review of Nello, on Madison Avenue – The New York Times